| Gerlach, Nevada
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While we usually prefer the road less traveled, we chose the road most easiest and decided to head in from the south because most of you will probably be headed in from Reno. Step one is getting to Gerlach, but even getting here isn't a casual affair! Treat this one as a nice primer to your trip. Go big, go home, and go remote!
Gracie and I started our journey in "downtown" Gerlach just a few yards north of Bruno's Country Club. We began the trip in front of an old friend [152], right next to the Gerlach Water Tower. For convenience sake, the remaining mileage you see is catalogued from this spot rather than Interstate 80.
This little everything-town coins the nickname, "Where the Pavement Ends and the West Begins." And well, visit once and you'll understand. Consider it the nucleus for the entire northwest corner. Bag the markers here, hit up a hot meal at Bruno's, and supply yourself with all the resources you might need before heading out into the great wide open.
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| "34 Crossroads"
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With our tank topped off and plenty of supplies on board, we headed north out of town on County Route 447 to this well ... signed ... junction. This meeting of two paved highways in the middle of nowhere is hard to miss.
The left fork here liberally lists mileages to Cedarville, Alturas, Lakeview and Squaw Creek Reservoir via Washoe County Route 447, while the right fork provides directions to Vya, Leadville, Denio, Boulder Res, and of course, Soldier Meadows on County Route 34. Yup. This is pretty much every major control point in this desolate region of the state. These two signs are great indicators of just how far and few between civilization is spaced out in this region. Hardcore road buffs will also notice the difference in the signage. These two signs are remnants of Nevada's old highway system dating back to the 1960s when Old State Route 81 branched to the left and County Route 34 was actually State Route 34.
This sign greets you upon continuing straight on County Route 34. Notice the old green posts, yet another indicator that this sign was implemented during Nevada's early highway system. (Leadville is a ghost town and the only one point listed on this sign without an active population.)
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| "Doobie Lane"
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The fabled Guru Lane highlights the work of a local named Dwayne "Doobie" Williams from Gerlach who passed away in 2000.
Doobie left behind a quirky and impresssionist work on the desert solely for the intention of desert wanderers like us to come away enlightened by the desert's blank slate.
The "gateway" to Doobie Lane is also the "Gateway to Life."
"Ground Zero"
"Teepee of Life"
After Doobie's outdoor exhibit CR 34 hugs the west shore of the Black Rock playa for the next 12 miles. Several dirt paths branch away from the blacktop to provide access to the lakeshore.
The defining word for "Black Rock" almost always means the entire Black Rock Desert watershed itself -- one that covers 11,600 square miles. The Black Rock Desert is the largest desert playa in North America -- spanning 100 miles in length across northern Washoe and Humboldt Counties and covers about a thousand square miles! Scenes like these are becoming rare in these parts since in recent years, seventy percent of the playa has fallen under wilderness protection. Thus, access to the playa can only be done on foot. In retrospect, the silence is out here is a strange contrast to the annual Burning Man Festival that attracts more than 50,000 people every year.
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| "Twelve Mile Access"
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Mile 12 from Gerlach marks the point known as "12 Mile Access" - one of the more reliable points to put in on the playa. A half-mile from this sign you're greeted by our second crossroads and one of the most important in the region.
Here is where we said goodbye to the pavement for two whole days. CR 34 loses pavement six miles ahead just past the Fly Ranch, but continues another 80-something miles further to the Oregon border and deep into the heart of this wild outback! 34 is also the "quickest" way to tackle [149]. This marker disappeared many years ago and its location sits at the junction with the BLM road into High Rock Canyon about forty minutes north of here (34 miles south of Vya). From here, you can tread on through High Rock Canyon to Soldier Meadows. Don't expect a lot in the way of company. (Check out our intro page for full coverage of this route.)
Soldier Meadows, here we come! The real adventure begins.
Kudos to the BLM! Without mileages like these travelers in this lonely country would have little clue to a waypoint. Consider this your final warning before heading into the outback. And yes, as the sign reads, you are on your own!
We didn't expect a whole lot in the way of company to begin with. In fact, we passed one vehicle the entire trip in and out of Soldier Meadows. That's doing Nevada!
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| Mile 16 |
The Soldier Meadows Road heads northwest between Granite Creek Valley and the Black Rock playa. For the next seven miles several paths branch away to the playa. The desolation is pretty sweet through here as it winds in and out of alkali mounds, saltbush, and sand dunes. The stark vistas might as well be outdoor exhibits of ancient Lake Lahontan's presence many thousands of years ago. In very wet years this section of the road becomes muddy enough to challenge hardcore four-wheel-drive vehicles.
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| Mile 20 |
Once leaving the sand dunes, the road widens to cross an expansive valley overlooking the Black Rock playa. On the left you'll see the Calico Range and the first of several wilderness areas in the region. Several dirt tracks branch away from the road for the next five miles to the wilderness boundary. Extend your trip for a great night's Camp in the Calicos.
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| Mile 27 |
The Soldier Meadows Road makes an abrupt 90-degree turn on the horizon to parallel the Calico Mountains Wilderness boundary. From here on, views of the Black Rock begin to disappear.
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| Mile 35 |
Two hours after leaving Gerlach, the road began to feel like a familiar friend. There was no turning back. Not even one minute after we captured this image, a gang of Pronghorn lept across the road. Sorry folks. The antelope evaded our camera.
You know you're a Nevadan when you can spot a ranch from several miles away. Take a look. A keen set of eyes will spot the clump of trees on the middle right horizon. You're looking at the old poplar trees of the Willow Ranch.
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| Mile 39Finally, after an hour and a half from Gerlach, the first reassurance sign of Soldier Meadows appeared. This sign was nailed to the fence of the Willow Ranch. The Little High Rock Range on the left marked another desert wilderness area. The wilderness boundary begins the minute you step foot off the road. Only 21 miles to go! 
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